All posts by jb38
Below are all of jb38's postings, with the most recent are at the bottom of the page.
Steve P: Yes quite so!, as although DUK's predictions can in certain instances be reasonably accurate, however in other cases I feel that either rose tinted glasses are being worn or alternatively patches are being worn over the eyes because of just how far out some of the predictions given can be, and that is even when taking into account the fact of it being exceedingly difficult for anyone to determine exactly where a UHF RF signal will or will not reach because of the variables involved.
That said though I do appreciate all the other info they provide such as TX powers and channel numbers used by same, saves a lot of cross checking and so the site does serve a very valuable purpose.
| link to this comment |
Sakina: A satellite box will only work with a dish system and nothing else with there being no alternatives to this, likewise the aerials you refer to only being of any use to a terrestrial receiver, meaning a Freeview TV or box.
| link to this comment |
joyce: You simply connect the two devices together using a scart lead from the VHS machines AV1 to the DVD recorders AV2 input ensuring that AV2 is selected as the input using the DVD recorders "input select" (or "source") button on the remote control, although if neither is seen on the control it will likely be accessed via the DVD's recording menu, it having been of somewhat assistance if you had provided the model number of the DVD recorder in question.
All said being on the assumption that your DVD recorders AV1 socket is connected into the TV's AV1.
| link to this comment |
Tony Jaques: What I was really getting at albeit not said in so many words, was that the only thing that changed on that date apart from the muxes operating frequency was the fact of you having carried out a retune, an action notorious for having an adverse effect in many of these boxes and all being related to software issues, an issue which was never really resolved, and why the policy usually adopted by retailers such as Argos or Aldi was to either change the box for another brand or give a refund on the purchase price, although in the case of the former they were offering an updated (or so called anyway) model of the same brand.
That said, the other problem of dropping channels is mostly (but not completely) connected to the tuners fitted in these boxes having a low memory capacity, this being the reason for the advice with regards to manually tuning in the mux channels required followed by deleting all the unwanted ones as this in most cases usually rectified the problem, of course with the channel deleting exercise having to be carried out "before" the box was switched off.
Just purely out of curiosity, what software number is your box using? as anything later than 1.8 or 1.9 was known to introduce further problems to those already in existence, and indeed was the reason for the advice given to many to backtrack on their software.
| link to this comment |
Ray: Its not really possible to give any advice on this without having knowledge of your location, e.g: a post code or one from nearby such as a post office etc, but you should try carrying out another auto-tune but stopping it immediately after it starts, as that will have wiped out anything stored in the memory, then once you have verified that the epg (programme guide) does NOT appear just carry out a normal auto-tune.
Should you have any problems with carrying out the aforementioned procedure, then first of all carry out an auto-tune but with the aerial removed, then when completed and the "no channels" message comes on, reconnect the aerial and carry out a final normal auto-tune.
If the problem remains, then a post code will be required to enable the details of the transmitter that covers you area to be checked out.
| link to this comment |
agnes malcolm: To add to that already said, can it be assumed that you NOT using a Freeview box thats coupled into a old analogue TV's aerial socket via a coax jumper lead? and if not then what type of connection are you using?
| link to this comment |
Lionel Higman: Just to clarify on a couple of issues which I feel might be causing some confusion.
(1) The Vision device you have in the loft does not in any way amplify the signal, only split it, but though as with all non powered splitters they have a slight attenuation effect on the signal passing through them whereby they should only be used in areas where a strong signal is being received.
The other point being, that although a "DC pass" type splitter has been installed in your loft, this being the only type that can be used in mast head amplifier situations so that it will not block the amps 12 volts supply from a power unit located elsewhere, if indeed not by the TV itself as some can, however it should also be appreciated that just because this type has been fitted does NOT necessarily indicate that you actually have a mast head amplifier, as these type of splitters can be used in any type of situation "where a strong signal is being received".
By the way, the power unit used to feed a mast head amplifier is a two way device, insomuch that as well as injecting 12 Volts DC into the coax that runs up to the mast head amplifier it also extracts the signal coming down the coax as well as isolating the 12 volts from the TV's outlet, this done internally on any TV's (or box) capable of powering an active aerial.
(2) When I had referred to the possibility that there "might" be a bad joint where the coax joins your aerial and which would result in a weak signal, an easy way to test (albeit crudely) for this possibility in "areas where the signal is strong" is to unscrew the coax connector from the aerial and push the coax's copper wire middle (or pin sticking out from the plugs inner polythene section) into the splitters aerial "in" socket cup (in the middle of socket), the idea being that by NOT having the coax's braiding connected the entire cable becomes an aerial, and so if the picture is more stable when only the middle of the coax is used then it points to a defective connection where the coax joins the aerial.
But though, your problem is maybe simply being caused by the signal path from the transmitter being affected by tree induced problems, your area not being one where they are in short supply! and if the aerial test proves negative (no fault indicated) then you should try connecting the aerial straight into the amplifier you had referred to, and with the output from the amplifier going into the splitters input as this will result in all outputs being boosted.
Although maybe you could indicated what's printed on the amp gain wise? and with my suggestion of where to install the amp obviously being totally dependant on whether or not your loft has a power socket.
| link to this comment |
carol Johnson: As your query is basically one involving reception then a post code is really required, or at least one from somewhere nearby such as a shop / post office etc, this then enabling access to info on the channels used by station that covers the area.
That said though, if neighbours on the same communal aerial system as your mother have reported that all is OK with them, then check that the jumper lead between the TV and the wall plate (if used) is OK.
The other point being, that its always best to carry out a factory reset on the TV "before" carrying out an auto tune, this also being called "default setting" or "first time installation" dependant on the brand involved.
| link to this comment |
Sunday 14 April 2013 8:26PM
Roland Debenham: It would be somewhat easier to give advice on this if you had provided a post code, or at least one from somewhere nearby within 1/2 a mile (at the most) so that the reception predictor can be accessed.