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Brian Butterworth published on UK Free TV For the last six years, I have answered many thousands of personal emails that you have sent to UK Free TV.
Sadly, I am unable to offer this personal service at the moment.
Until I can restore this service, please can you leave any questions you have on an appropriate page, where they will be answered as soon as possible, or below, if you can't figure out where to ask.
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Help with TV/radio stations?
In this section
Wednesday, 19 September 2012
J
jb3811:44 PM
William: With reference purely to your 8.07 pm posting and which I have just noticed, provided that you havent accidentally reversed the test prods when you were making your tests then what you have reported is an indication that the coax plate has been fitted with the leads being accidentally reversed.
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Thursday, 20 September 2012
J
jb386:19 AM
William: Should the wall plate in the bedroom look physically the same as the one marked "master" fitted in the living room, then what's possibly happened is that the person installing these plates has fitted them the wrong way around room wise, as although both plates might look the same one will have a isolator on the main aerial input socket but the other wont, and with this being the reason why the bedroom one appears faulty.
This can be verified if you carry out an electrical continuity (ohms range) check between the cable inlet on the rear of the plate and the outlet on the front, as the one fitted in the living room will give the same reading as when you touch the test meter prods together (no resistance) and this one should be in the bedroom and not the living room.
A mistake of this nature could have damaged some types of TV's or boxes, and so you are lucky it didn't in your case.
Just as a matter of interest, dependant on the number of homes the communal system serves, as should it involve a large number of properties the 12 volts could be to power in-line boosters installed at various points along the line, this being why isolator type wall pates are essential.
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W
William7:51 AM
The bedroom and living room co-ax point can't have been fitted the wrong way round for the obvious reason that the bedroom plate is only a single point and the wall plate in the living room is a double plate with 5 points on it including TV ( main aerial ) , sat 1 , sat 2 , FM , return and a telephone outlet
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W
William7:55 AM
Also I think your correct about the test leads being reversed " I am receiving 9V DC " on the back terminals of my bedroom wall plate between the co-ax braiding and internal core but not on the outlet at the front of the plate and with regards to my attenuator the heat level of it cooled off totally when I turned the red dial on it to clear up my bedroom analogue/sky picture it was only heating up when the picture was fuzzy in the bedroom ( must have been the wrong setting )
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W
William4:17 PM
My master wall plate is a screened socket quadruplexed + return
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J
jb384:41 PM
William: With regards to your wall plates I did only say "should", as facilities can vary dependant on the status of a building but you obviously have the standard set up.
However as far as attenuators are concerned, these never at any time heat up no matter what type of installation they are fitted to as there isn't any power in them to cause them to heat, except that is in your
installation because of either an incorrect (or maybe faulty) wall plate having been fitted that doesn't have DC blocking on its normal coax link through connection.
The reason why the attenuator doesn't heat up when set on one position but does at another is simply because these low cost devices are basically only variable resistors that work on the principle of slowly short circuiting the input signal as the control is being varied, and as the input signal is being shorted so is the resistance across the 12 volts which then causes the current to increase through the resistor producing the heating effect that you noticed.
You could rectify this problem yourself by simply taking the input coax off its terminal post and inserting a small capacitor between the end of the coax and the terminal post, as this would then solve the problem, but just to make sure nothing else is odd about your installation make sure that when the take the coax off the terminal post that this kills the 12 volts on the sockets output.
By the way any small ceramic capacitor would do as the value isn't critical. (eg: 500pf)
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W
William4:47 PM
And the bedroom co-ax point is a single point ( isolated with capacitor ) that's prob the reason it's not allowing the 9V to come through I take it
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J
jb385:03 PM
William: Simply put yes! if the 9 volts is on the end of the coax when measured on the rear.
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W
William5:15 PM
Jb38 thank you for all your help and sorry if I am wasting your time with some of these posts but some of the discoveries I am making day to day seem to differ I work a lot and don't always get the chance to do a lot at home as I don't get much time but what I did notice there was When my sky box and TV were switched off at the wall when I came home I went straight over to my master TV point put the volt meter on it and got nothing.
I then switched my box and TV on , 5 mins later I was getting a voltage 28V DC on the same point that I was before getting nothing on the only two cables from my box to my wall plate the whole time were the " sat 1 " and " sat 2 " cables for my sky + , so I took the cover off to see ( like you suggested ) if there was no capacitor fitted at the back and all that is in the back are two co-ax cables going into an enclosed silver unit which seems to be doing the main aerial and the satellite don't really want to open this though
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M
Mazbar5:39 PM
William: how long have you been trying to get this thing right, just call someone out who knows what they are doing and they will get everything right for you
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